Monday, February 28

Transhumance passing through Venasque...

TRANSHUMANCE
.
Sometimes a word comes into your vocabulary and although it doesn't have a clear meaning, it lingers in your thoughts and secretly works in your subconscious, waiting for its opportunity to be more than defined-waiting to take a special place in your heart- to imprint it's definition in a way that the dictionary can only be envious of.  

Several years ago, our son Vincent spent time with a family in Bordeaux. Thierry, the father, was very dynamic and looked forward to sharing many experiences with Vincent. Thierry is a wine maker for the well known winery Chateau Estrille. Of his many plans were to take Vincent fishing, mushroom hunting, harvesting grapes, and the one that perked my interest, a hike up the mountains in the Pyrenees for the "transhumance". 

Of course, I went to the dictionary to demystify this term. Transhumance: The seasonal moving of livestock from regions of different climates. "Sounds interesting", I thought.
 "I am sure our 14 yr. old son will have a blast". 

The day after Vincent arrived in France they left on their excursion up the mountain to follow the path of the livestock.
 Vincent called home after the weekend and I eagerly awaited his description of his first adventure.  I don't remember any mention of livestock just a typical teenage explaination; a full days hike, exhausted with jetlag, and an incredible view from the summit of France to the east and Spain to the west.  

So the visions of  transhumance went to sleep in my conscience until a few days ago, when on our way up the hill to Venasque, traffic stopped; up ahead a flock of goats and sheep, a mix of dogs, a man on a donkey, several shabby looking characters and a rickity old van with a sign on the back reading "Transhumance".  Louis and I jumped out of the car. I grabbed my Flip video camera and we tried to capture the beauty of the primitive and traditional practice of shepherds herding their flocks to new pastures.

This particular group were on a ten day journey from the Vaucluse to the Drome region.  The Drome region hosts a festival in the village of Die. You can check out more videos on You Tube and visit the website http://www.diois-tourisme.com/  or look for other festivals under: Fetes de la Transhumance.

The following is a beautiful description from Alphonse Daudet, "Letters from My Mill" that I found in Louisa Jones book, PROVENCE A country Almanac.
"The road itself seemed on the march...the old rams first, leading with their horns, with a wild look to them; behind came the bulk of the sheep, the mothers somewhat weary with their suckling lambs underfoot; the mules, with red pompons, carried the newborn in baskets on their backs that rocked like cradles by the slow rhythm of the march; then the dogs, all in a sweat, their tongues hanging to the ground, and two shepherds, great rogues draped in homespun russet coats that reached to their feet like great capes."


Ps...I just asked Vincent (19 yrs old now) to tell me again about that trip up the Pyrenees...yes!!! there were sheeps and goats, even a carcass that was being devoured by hungry voltures. It was a 30 mile hike to the summit and they stayed four days in the shepherds humble abode.  Glad I asked again...


Thursday, February 24

Sunday Paella with "contra band" sausages from...


Flying Mule Farm
Basque style  chorizo sausages
FROM AMERICA!!!
ready for the barbeque

How did I get them from California to France  
step 1. Freeze overnight
step 2. Wrap well in plastic freezer bags with an ice pack, in an ice chest & at the last minute before checking bags, transfer to your luggage (pack in the center-insulated with lots of clothes). Carry on an extra plastic baggie.
step 3. Before landing ask stewardess for two cups of ice and save in plastic baggie.
step 4. At baggage claim, remove sausages from plastic with ice pack, and replace them in the baggie with ice cubes from stewardess.
step 5. Put them in your purse, because no one at customs in France cares what you bring in.
step 6. Pass through customs and head for the train.
step 7. Repack the ice again after a two hour layover in the train station and get on the TGV for a three and a half hour journey.
step 8. Arrive in Avignon 27 hours later with your Flying Mule Farm basque chorizo perfectly thawed and ready to BBQ!

http://www.flyingmulefarm.com/ 
Foothill Agrarian
http://www.flyingmulefarm.blogspot.com/

Wednesday, February 23

Last look at Uzes...

Thank you to Jeff Hamilton and his family for making the trip to Uzes and sharing their experience in a blog...It would have otherwise gone unknown to us & what fun it is to
unexpectedly discover such a treasure.
A brief video:
A quick look around the historic center of the city. Starting in the Place aux Herbes where the market place is held wednesday and saturday mornings, then heading a short walk to the grand boulevard that circles the city and is the main route for circulating traffic, finishing at Place Albert 1er...
where one would find the Office de Tourisme.


Visit the Hamiltons blog www.tryintobefrench.blogspot.com  for a sweet glimpse of life in Uzes during the summer months.
On to new things tommorow...

Tuesday, February 15

A picture paints a thousand words...


Just outside Uzes (off D981) west of Avignon, there lies an enchanted village...
CASTILLON DU GARD
pop.943


















FOUR STAR HOTEL!
This looks like a real treat and retreat...










Anyone want to invest in a piece of history...
FOR SALE:

Beautiful corner location with history and charm galore.
...The price you ask? 
Don't know yet...to be continued!

Saturday, February 12

Bienvenue a Uzes...

Last summer, I ran into Janice Forbes at the Foothills Farmers Market. She had heard we were leaving for the south of France with our children and suggested I check out the blog of a fellow Auburnite and local "superstar skier"...I won't mention his name, as I have not asked his permission. I visited the blog and was charmed by their adventure in Uzes, and could not wait to visit. Well, after five months, we finally made it and were so taken by the beauty of the region, we are considering a move there for the next school year.

Welcome to Uzes


Like all early civilizations and many of the early prosperous cities, water was an essential element of success and settlement.  Uzes is the source of the Eure and the inspiration and vision, in the first century before Christ, to the Romans. It is here they would begin the aqueduct that would supply the precious water to their city Nimes. The most famous stretch of the aqueduct is just ten minutes outside Uzes, Le Pont du Gard, the majestic archetechtural arches that span the Gard river. We hiked to a view point from a little medival city Castillon du Gard. Unfortunately, it was too overcast for a clear view...next time!
But please enjoy the images of the
 beautifully preserved medieval city Uzes.

Le Tour Fenestrelle
The "window tower"
Upon entering the city from the south, Le Tour Fenestrelle greets the visitors of Uzes.



Cathedrale St. Theodorit
Inside the Cathedral
The Relics of St. Firmin
A saint, venerated for miracles in regards to the epidemic of the plague during the middle ages.
...And a prayer for all those that visit the
cathedral and the city of Uzes. 


Notre Dame de la Merci
Chapel in the cathedral



Before and After images of the restored fresco paintings



FEUDAL TOWERS


 CHATEAU DU DUCHE
in the heart of the city is still inhabited by the Ducal family, but is open to the public for visits.
                        







       Through the quiet streets...
it is off season!    
Signs on many businesses read:
Fermeture Annuelle -Conges!
Annually closed for season
(Be back when the tourists arrive!)
                                       























                                  Seven doors in the City

Photographs of european doors is by no means original, yet one I could not resist to share the beauty and uniqueness of these humble masterpieces.







Promenade Racine
with a view of the surrounding environment





 Uzes is in the department Gard in the region of Languedoc-Roussillon.
The population in the off season is 8,300 and jumps to approx. 25,000 during the summer months.
The market place is held every saturday in the place aux Herbes with 200 commercants and on wednesday mornings for local producers with seasonal produce.
The area is surrounded by vineyards and nature...perfect for balades, bicycles, canoe & kayak, air ballon flights, golf, swimming, and horseback riding.  The city has a well developed artistic community with galeries, workshops, music and theater. Of course, gastronomy is a given...it's france after all! It is easily accessed from Avignon, Nimes, or Montpellier. 
Well worth a visit and don't forget a Foie Gras burger at Bistro Burger in the place sux Herbes. 

Uzes and Paris!!